The 4 C’s

Understanding Diamond Clarity

January 13, 2010 By marc Leave a Comment

In a previous post we discussed diamond clarity and the GIA clarity grading scale. In this post we wanted to take a closer look at each clarity grade to give you a better understanding of why diamonds with a higher clarity grade are more rare and therefore more costly.

For diamonds in the VVS range and lower the grader is looking for clarity characteristics totally enclosed within the diamond or extending into it from the surface. For Flawless or Internally Flawless diamonds the grader is looking for clarity characteristics on the surface of the diamond.

GIA Diamond Clarity Grading Scale

Flawless (F)

F diamonds have basically no inclusions or blemishes. They are extremely rare, so rare in fact that many will never see one. A Flawless diamond can have some clarity characteristics and still be considered Flawless such as: extra facets, naturals confined to the girdle, or internal graining.

Internally Flawless (IF)

IF diamonds may have blemishes, but no inclusions. In the 1970’s GIA added this clarity grade for diamonds that didn’t meet the strict guidelines of Flawless. The blemishes on an IF diamond can be removed by polishing.

Very Very Slightly Included (VVS1, VVS2)

VVS diamonds contain very tiny inclusions that are difficult to see under magnification. The inclusions in VVS1 diamonds are extremely difficult to see in the face up position and they may be visible only through the pavilion. Inclusions in VVS2 diamonds are very difficult to see.

Very Slightly Included (VS1, VS2)

VS diamonds contain minor clarity characteristics that range from difficult to see (VS1) to somewhat easy to see (VS2) under magnification and to a trained grader. In some very rare cases, a VS diamond may have eye-visible inclusions. The common inclusions found in a VS diamond are clouds, crystals, or groups of pinpoints. These inclusions do not affect the diamond’s beauty and are a great choice for engagement rings.

Slightly Included (SI1, SI2)

SI diamonds contain inclusions that are visible when viewed under magnification and some may also be visible to the unaided eye. The common inclusions found in SI diamonds are crystals, feathers, and clouds. Because some SI diamonds are “eye-clean” they offer a great value for your money.

Included (I1, I2, I3)

I diamonds contain inclusions that are visible to the unaided eye. Since 1910 does not offer I clarity diamonds.

To learn more about diamond clarity characteristics, visit our diamond education section

Shop all Since 1910 diamonds to find the right one for you

Filed Under: Education, The 4 C's Tagged With: Diamond Blemishes, Diamond Clarity, Diamond Clarity Characteristics, Diamond Inclusions, Flawless diamonds, GIA clarity grading scale, internally flawless diamonds, SI diamonds, VS diamonds, VVS diamonds

What is a Fancy Cut Diamond?

January 7, 2010 By marc Leave a Comment

A fancy cut diamond is any diamond shape other than a round brilliant. The most popular fancy cut diamonds sold today are asscher cut, cushion cut, emerald cut, heart shaped, marquise shaped, oval shaped, pear shaped, princess cut, and radiant cut, but there are many others.

The face up shape of a fancy cut diamond is usually the first thing people notice and the main reason why they are purchased. Fancy cut diamonds provide a way for you to express your individuality and appeal to those looking for that less traditional look. Fancy cut diamonds are also a great choice as side stones for a three stone engagement ring or accent stones on a solitaire setting.

Each fancy cut diamond has its own characteristics, so you should take the time to familiarize yourself with each. Most fancy cut diamonds on the market today are cut using the brilliant cut facet arrangement allowing for the same brilliance, fire, and scintillation of that of the round brilliant cut diamond, but some are cut using step cuts or mixed cuts. The round brilliant cut features triangular and kite shaped facets that begin at the diamond’s center and go out to the girdle. A step cut has long, narrow, four sided facets arranged in rows parallel to the girdle on both the crown and pavilion. Mixed cuts are a mix of both the round brilliant and step cuts. They can either have brilliant cuts on the crown and step cuts on the pavilion or step cuts on the crown and brilliant cuts on the pavilion.

Some Diamond Terms for Fancy Cuts

Belly – the center area of the side of a heart, marquise, oval, or pear where it curves out slightly.

Head – the rounded end of a pear

Shoulders – the curved edges between the head and belly of a pear

Lobes – the rounded part of a heart

Cleft – the v-shaped part of a heart

Symmetry and length-to-width ratio are important factors to consider when purchasing fancy cuts. You always want a fancy cut that is symmetrical. For example, both lobes of a heart should be the same size, both ends of an emerald should be the same width. Length-to-width ratio determines the shape of a fancy cut. There are preferred ranges for each shape, but this is also a personal preference.

To learn more about the characteristics of each fancy cut diamond visit our diamond education section.

Filed Under: Education, The 4 C's Tagged With: Asscher cut diamond, Cushion Cut Diamond, Diamond symmetry, Emerald cut diamond, Fancy cut diamonds, Fancy shaped diamonds, heart shaped diamond, length to width ratio, marquise cut diamond, oval cut diamond, Pear Shaped Diamond, princess cut diamond, radiant cut diamond, Round Brilliant Cut Diamonds, solitaire engagement ring, Solitaire Setting, Three Stone Engagement Ring, Three Stone Setting

Understanding Diamonds and Light

January 6, 2010 By marc Leave a Comment

The GIA has studied and documented the relationship between light and a polished diamond for many years. Research has allowed them to understand how different facet sizes, arrangements, and angles could either improve or reduce a diamond’s appearance. This understanding led to the development of the GIA Diamond Cut grading system.

When diamonds and light interact the results are amazing. The relationship between diamonds and light lies in how much light hits the surface of the diamond, enters the diamond, and how the light reflects back from the diamond. The proportions of a polished diamond (its angles and measurements) and the relationship between them have an extraordinary effect on how light performs when it strikes the diamond.

A diamond has three visual characteristics: brightness, fire, and scintillation. Brightness (aka brilliance) is the amount of white light returned from the diamond to the observer, fire is the display of spectral colors created when the white light strikes the diamond’s facets, and scintillation is the flashes of light and contrasting dark areas seen when a diamond, the light source, or the observer moves.

A well-cut diamond will get the most out of its interaction with light. Well-cut diamonds are brighter and more attractive than poorly cut diamonds even if weight, color, and clarity are the same.

To learn more about diamond proportions visit our diamond education section.

Filed Under: Education, The 4 C's Tagged With: Diamond Brightness, Diamond Brilliance, Diamond Cut, Diamond Fire, Diamonds and Light

What is an Emerald Cut Diamond?

January 2, 2010 By marc Leave a Comment

The Emerald cut diamond received its name when a diamond cutter chose to cut diamond rough in the shape of an Emerald using the same method as they would for cutting an Emerald shaped gemstone. Emerald shapes are cut with “stepped” facets, which means the facets resemble steps on a staircase.

The Emerald cut provides for a very elegant classic look and is known for its long lines. The pavilion (bottom portion of the stone) is cut with large rectangular facets to create an open effect or optical appearance.

Since Emerald cut diamonds are designed with larger facets, you need to be sure that you are familiar with the qualities of a good cut. Like the Asscher cut you always want to choose cut, color, and clarity over weight. An Emerald diamond makes a beautiful engagement ring as a solitaire or set with other stones.

To learn more about Emerald cut diamonds visit our diamond education section

Filed Under: Education, The 4 C's Tagged With: Diamond Clarity, Diamond Color, Diamond Cut, diamond facets, Emerald cut diamond, Stepped cut diamond

What is an Asscher Cut Diamond?

January 1, 2010 By marc Leave a Comment

The Asscher cut diamond was developed in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Holland and is a variation of an Emerald cut. The Asscher cut is a stepped square cut also known as a Modified Square Emerald cut. This cut offers a small table (largest facet on a stone) high crown (top portion of the stone) deep pavilions (lower portion of the stone), and cut corners. With its 72 wide step facets it resembles that of an octagon and sparkles like the Round Brilliant.

The Asscher was designed to draw your eye to the center of the stone. Because of this, cut, color, and clarity are very important factors to consider when choosing this cut. Always purchase the best stone within your budget. When choosing an Asscher weight should be the last thing you consider.

To learn more about Asscher cut diamonds visit our diamond education section

Filed Under: Education, The 4 C's Tagged With: Asscher Cut, Asscher Cut Diamonds, Asscher shaped diamond, Diamond Clarity, Diamond Color, Diamond Cut, diamond shapes, Modified Emerald cut diamond, Modified Square Cut Diamonds, Modified Square Emerald Cut Diamond

The 4Cs of Diamonds: Diamond Cut

December 28, 2009 By marc Leave a Comment

Of the 4Cs, cut is the most important characteristic of a diamond and it has the greatest overall impact on a diamond’s beauty. Diamonds have the unique ability to manipulate light (aka fire, sparkle, and brilliance) that can only be realized with an extremely high level of accuracy during the cutting and polishing process. Nature dictates color and clarity, but humans affect the cut. When cutting diamond rough, the cutter not only considers the proportions of a diamond, but the craftsmanship of overall symmetry and polish as well. Light enters and exits though the crown reflecting from one facet to another. A diamond that is cut too shallow or too deep will not reflect light properly and the diamond will not be as brilliant as a diamond with an excellent cut grade.

Diamond’s Light Return

In early 2005, GIA (Gemological Institute of America) introduced a diamond cut grading system for round brilliant cut diamonds in the D-Z color range and flawless to I3 clarity range. In January 2006, these new cut grades ranging from excellent to poor were added to all GIA diamond certificates (aka diamond plot). To achieve the cut grading system, GIA calculated the cut results for 38.5 million cut proportion sets based on the evaluation of seven components. The first three were related to appearance and brightness and the last four were related to overall craftsmanship.

GIA Cut Grades

Excellent

Very Good

Good

Fair

Poor

When purchasing a diamond, we recommend purchasing the best possible cut grade within your budget. Unlike color and clarity; which are personal preferences, cut is extremely important.

Visit our education section for more on diamond cut.

Filed Under: Education, The 4 C's Tagged With: Diamond Brilliance, Diamond Cut, Diamond's Light Return, Diamonds and Light, Fire, GIA Cut Grading System, Round Brilliant Cut Diamonds, The 4 C's

The 4Cs of Diamonds: Diamond Weight

December 24, 2009 By marc Leave a Comment

Diamond weight is described using two terms: carat and point. Carat is determined by measuring the distance across the top of diamond and is always listed in millimeters. When measuring diamond weight it is important to factor in the cut grade. In a well-cut diamond, the maximum amount of light enters and exits through the table making the diamond look larger than a poorly cut stone.

Like color and clarity, carat weight is a key factor in determining the value of a diamond. Diamond prices vary by carat weight increasing at the full and half-carat weights. Diamonds just below these weight changes will be less costly and a majority of the time size is undetectable. For example, a 1.00ct diamond will be in a different price point than a .98ct diamond, but the size will not be noticeable. Also, since larger diamonds are more rare and costly than smaller diamonds a 1.00ct single diamond will cost much more than several smaller diamonds equaling a total carat weight of 1.00ct.

Diamond Measurements

Carat = 100 points or 200 milligrams

Point = 0.01 or one-hundredth of a carat

What carat weight is right for her?

There are several important factors to keep in mind when determining carat weight.

Price – diamond cut, we feel, is the most important of the 4Cs and you should always choose a well cut stone over weight. If carat weight is important to you and you would like a larger stone, you have some flexibility in terms of price with color and clarity.

Finger size – a 1.00ct diamond will look much larger on someone with a size 4 finger than a size 8 finger.

Setting – certain settings can make a diamond appear larger than it actually is. Our personal shoppers can help you determine which setting is right for you if you don’t already have something in mind.

Visit our education section for more on diamond weight

Filed Under: Education, The 4 C's Tagged With: Diamond Clarity, Diamond Cut, Diamond Setting, Diamond Weight, Diamonds, The 4 C's

The 4Cs of Diamonds: Diamond Clarity

December 23, 2009 By marc Leave a Comment

Of the 4C’s, diamond clarity is the most understood characteristic of a diamond.

Diamond clarity actually refers to the absence of clarity characteristics (aka – diamond inclusions, diamond blemishes) seen in almost all diamonds sold on the market today. Diamonds without clarity characteristics are extremely rare and valuable. Many clarity characteristics are not visible to the unaided eye and do not affect the beauty of the diamond.

In an effort to create consistency when comparing one diamond to another, GIA (The Gemological Institute of America) developed the clarity grading scale in the 1940’s and 1950’s; which is still used today. The scale consists of 11 grades ranging from flawless to included. When determining the clarity grade GIA considers the size, nature, position, color, and quantity of clarity characteristics that are visible using 10x magnification.

GIA Clarity Grades

FL – Flawless

IF – Internally flawless

VVS1 and VVs2 – Very, very slightly included

VS1 and VS2 – Very slightly included

SI1 and SI2 – Slightly included

I1, I2, and I3 – Included

We are often asked…which clarity grade is right for me? Like color and shape, clarity is a personal preference and largely determined by budget.

Visit our education section for more on diamond clarity

Filed Under: Education, The 4 C's Tagged With: Clarity grade, Clarity Grading Scale, Diamond Blemishes, Diamond Clarity, Diamond Clarity Characteristics, Diamond Inclusions

What is a Diamond Blemish?

December 20, 2009 By marc Leave a Comment

Blemishes are clarity characteristics on the surface of a diamond. Some blemishes are natural and some occur when the diamond is cut, polished, or from every day wear. Some blemishes can affect the diamond’s clarity grade, but many have no impact on the diamond’s brilliance.

Some of the more common blemishes…

Scratches are fine lines on the surface usually the table that can be removed by re-polishing the diamond.

Nicks are chips in the diamond usually around the girdle.

Pits are holes in the diamond’s facets and are usually hard to see unless one is in the table facet.

Extra facets are additional facets added the diamond to polish away a flaw or to save diamond weight.

Naturals are part of the diamond’s original rough surface left unpolished. They are usually left along the diamond’s girdle to produce a larger carat weight stone. When left on the girdle, naturals will not affect clarity grade.

Learn more about the 4C’s

Filed Under: Education, The 4 C's Tagged With: Diamond Blemish, Diamond Clarity, Diamond Clarity Characteristics, The 4 C's

What is a Diamond Inclusion?

December 20, 2009 By marc Leave a Comment

A diamond inclusion is a clarity characteristic that is completely enclosed within the diamond or extends into it from the surface. Some people think of inclusions as “flaws” or “imperfections,” but since no two diamonds have like inclusions, think of them as what makes the diamond you choose special and unique only to you. Take the time to get to know your diamond and you’ll see how truly unique and “perfect” it is. Flawless diamonds are rare and costly, so most of the diamonds on the market today do have inclusions. Many do not impact the beauty of the stone, but there are some that will affect the brilliance or durability of the diamond.

Some of the more common inclusions…

Bearding is tiny hairline cracks alone the girdle of the diamond.

Cavities are large crevices or holes where the diamond is missing.

Crystals are minerals and other diamonds that form within the diamond. They come in a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. Many minute crystals that look like tiny specks under 10x magnification are called pinpoints. Crystals can lower the clarity grade of a diamond, but collectors also seek after them looking for that very unique mineral. The most common crystal colors are white and black. Black crystals are often referred to as “carbon spots,” which is an inaccurate term.

Cleavage is a straight flat crack. A cleavage may split the diamond apart along the length if hit in just the right spot.

Clouds are hazy or milky looking areas within the diamond. Most clouds are made up of tiny crystals too small to be seen alone under 10x magnification. Clouds can often times be difficult to find, but when they are large and dense they make the diamond appear white.

Feathers are cracks within the diamond that look exactly like their name, feathers. Small feathers don’t usually affect the durability of the diamond unless they reach the surface of the stone.

Growth and grain lines are fine lines caused by irregular crystallization that may make the diamond look oily or hazy. Colorless growth or grain lines usually don’t affect the diamonds clarity grade unless there is a large amount present, but may affect the diamond’s brilliance. White and colored lines will affect the diamond’s clarity grade.

Knots are included crystals left exposed on the surface by polishing. They look like bumps on the diamond.

Pinpoints are tiny crystals that look like small specks under 10x magnification that can either appear alone or in groups. When grouped together they can make a diamond look hazy.

Learn more about the 4C’s

Image shown is a feather

Image shown is a cloud

diamond inclusions

Image shown is bearding

Image shown is a very unique "bird" shaped crystal

Image shown is pinpoints

Filed Under: Education, The 4 C's Tagged With: Diamond Clarity, Diamond Clarity Characteristics, Diamond Inclusion, The 4 C's