Diamond Recutting

Why are diamonds re-cut?  Diamonds can be re-cut for many reasons.  The most common reason, even though diamonds are the hardest material on earth, is to remove chips and breaks.  Diamonds are also re-cut for the following reasons:

To make them look new and more modern – an Old Mine cut can be re-cut into a modern round brilliant (image shown below).  This will add brilliance, fire, and scintillation.  What once was an antique style cushion cut will now be modern and beautiful.

diamond recutting

To make them look antique – opposite of above….take a round brilliant cut and have it cut to an antique style shape.

To improve brilliance – adding additional facets will increase brilliance to any diamond.

To improve the cut grade – changing the diamond’s proportions will increase the cut grade.

To improve the color grade – excess diamond weight can be removed to increase the color grade.

To improve the clarity grade – certain clarity characteristics can be removed or polished away increasing the clarity grade.  It is not impossible to improve a clarity grade from a SI1 to a VS or VVS grade or even flawless.

diamond before

After looking at this list, you may be wondering why diamond cutters don’t just cut diamonds originally to produce the best color, clarity, and cut possible.  The reason – diamond cutters try to retain as much weight as possible from the diamond rough to maximize its value.   Diamond cutting is a skill and cutters need to compromise between beauty and value.  In the end, the value and salability of a finished diamond determines how a diamond is initially cut and whether or not a diamond is worth re-cutting.

When thinking of re-cutting your diamond it is important to discuss your options with a jeweler.  What you see as a dull chipped diamond may be a prized possession to others.  Over the years, diamond cutting and technology has changed.  If you take a look at your grandmother’s diamond you will notice the difference in brilliance, fire, and symmetry.  The round diamonds of today are much more brilliant than those of yesterday.

Why do people re-cut their original stones?

Sentimental value – Many of us get engaged at an early age and purchase the best diamond possible at that time.  Over the years, our budget and taste may change, but some are attached to the sentimental value of their original stone and upgrading is not an option.   Re-cutting is a great option for those holding onto their original stone for sentimental reasons.

Wear and tear over the years – even the hardest material on earth gets worn with age…over time diamond girdles may chip and your table and upper facets may get scratched.  Having your diamond polished will make it look as good as new.

To increase the color and clarity grade – with cut grade being the most important factor when purchasing a diamond often times color and clarity are sacrificed.  Having your diamond re-cut will enhance both.

Never think your diamond is beyond repair.  It’s amazing to see a poorly polished dull looking or damaged diamond re-cut into a beautiful brilliant stone.  In most cases, you will loose some weight off your diamond, so before starting the process be sure to think about all your options carefully.

When discussing options with your jeweler, ask to see an example of what your diamond may look like after it is re-cut.  Place your diamond and the jeweler’s diamond side by side.  This will give you a good idea of what you can expect and will help you decide.

The cost of re-cutting varies from stone to stone.  A diamond that just needs a little polishing will cost much less to repair than a diamond being re-cut for color or clarity.

Shop all Since 1910 engagement rings to find the perfect setting for your newly re-cut diamond.

Understanding Diamonds and Light

The GIA has studied and documented the relationship between light and a polished diamond for many years.  Research has allowed them to understand how different facet sizes, arrangements, and angles could either improve or reduce a diamond’s appearance.   This understanding led to the development of the GIA Diamond Cut grading system.

When diamonds and light interact the results are amazing.  The relationship between diamonds and light lies in how much light hits the surface of the diamond, enters the diamond, and how the light reflects back from the diamond.  The proportions of a polished diamond (its angles and measurements) and the relationship between them have an extraordinary effect on how light performs when it strikes the diamond.

A diamond has three visual characteristics: brightness, fire, and scintillation. Brightness (aka brilliance) is the amount of white light returned from the diamond to the observer, fire is the display of spectral colors created when the white light strikes the diamond’s facets, and scintillation is the flashes of light and contrasting dark areas seen when a diamond, the light source, or the observer moves.

A well-cut diamond will get the most out of its interaction with light.  Well-cut diamonds are brighter and more attractive than poorly cut diamonds even if weight, color, and clarity are the same.

To learn more about diamond proportions visit our diamond education section.

diamonds and light

The 4Cs of Diamonds: Diamond Cut

Of the 4Cs, cut is the most important characteristic of a diamond and it has the greatest overall impact on a diamond’s beauty.  Diamonds have the unique ability to manipulate light (aka fire, sparkle, and brilliance) that can only be realized with an extremely high level of accuracy during the cutting and polishing process.  Nature dictates color and clarity, but humans affect the cut.  When cutting diamond rough, the cutter not only considers the proportions of a diamond, but the craftsmanship of overall symmetry and polish as well.  Light enters and exits though the crown reflecting from one facet to another.  A diamond that is cut too shallow or too deep will not reflect light properly and the diamond will not be as brilliant as a diamond with an excellent cut grade.

Diamond’s Light Return

diamond cut chart

In early 2005, GIA (Gemological Institute of America) introduced a diamond cut grading system for round brilliant cut diamonds in the D-Z color range and flawless to I3 clarity range.  In January 2006, these new cut grades ranging from excellent to poor were added to all GIA diamond certificates (aka diamond plot).  To achieve the cut grading system, GIA calculated the cut results for 38.5 million cut proportion sets based on the evaluation of seven components.  The first three were related to appearance and brightness and the last four were related to overall craftsmanship.

GIA Cut Grades

Excellent

Very Good

Good

Fair

Poor

When purchasing a diamond, we recommend purchasing the best possible cut grade within your budget.  Unlike color and clarity; which are personal preferences, cut is extremely important.

Visit our education section for more on diamond cut.