What is a Fancy Cut Diamond?

A fancy cut diamond is any diamond shape other than a round brilliant.  The most popular fancy cut diamonds sold today are asscher cut, cushion cut, emerald cut, heart shaped, marquise shaped, oval shaped, pear shaped, princess cut, and radiant cut, but there are many others.

The face up shape of a fancy cut diamond is usually the first thing people notice and the main reason why they are purchased.  Fancy cut diamonds provide a way for you to express your individuality and appeal to those looking for that less traditional look.  Fancy cut diamonds are also a great choice as side stones for a three stone engagement ring or accent stones on a solitaire setting.

Each fancy cut diamond has its own characteristics, so you should take the time to familiarize yourself with each.  Most fancy cut diamonds on the market today are cut using the brilliant cut facet arrangement allowing for the same brilliance, fire, and scintillation of that of the round brilliant cut diamond, but some are cut using step cuts or mixed cuts.  The round brilliant cut features triangular and kite shaped facets that begin at the diamond’s center and go out to the girdle.   A step cut has long, narrow, four sided facets arranged in rows parallel to the girdle on both the crown and pavilion.  Mixed cuts are a mix of both the round brilliant and step cuts.  They can either have brilliant cuts on the crown and step cuts on the pavilion or step cuts on the crown and brilliant cuts on the pavilion.

fancy cut diamond

Some Diamond Terms for Fancy Cuts

Belly – the center area of the side of a heart, marquise, oval, or pear where it curves out slightly.

Head – the rounded end of a pear

Shoulders – the curved edges between the head and belly of a pear

Lobes – the rounded part of a heart

Cleft – the v-shaped part of a heart

Symmetry and length-to-width ratio are important factors to consider when purchasing fancy cuts.  You always want a fancy cut that is symmetrical.  For example, both lobes of a heart should be the same size, both ends of an emerald should be the same width.  Length-to-width ratio determines the shape of a fancy cut.  There are preferred ranges for each shape, but this is also a personal preference.

To learn more about the characteristics of each fancy cut diamond visit our diamond education section.

Jeff Cooper Bar Set Diamond Ring .54ct tw

Jeff Cooper Bar Set Diamond RingThis beautiful Jeff Cooper engagement ring features 3 round brilliant cut bar set diamonds on either side of your choice of a center stone.  This setting is available in palladium, platinum, 18kt white gold or 18kt  yellow gold and can accommodate a round brilliant or fancy shaped center stone from .40ct to 4.20ct.

Shop our entire collection of Jeff Cooper engagement rings

Simon G Butterfly Pave Diamond Setting

This beautiful Simon G engagement ring features a half moon shaped diamond on either side of your choice of a center stone and round brilliant cut pave-set diamonds on the band.

Available in platinum, 18kt white gold or 18kt yellow gold and can accommodate a round brilliant or fancy shaped center stone from .70ct to 4.20ct.

Shop our entire collection of Simon G engagement rings

FlyerFit by Martin Flyer Three Stone Hand Engraved Setting

This antique style three stone Martin Flyer engagement ring features two round brilliant cut side stones and hand engraved scroll work on the band.  This ring was designed to perfectly show off your choice of a center diamond.
All FlyerFit rings are made to fit perfectly flush with almost any wedding band.

FlyerFit by Martin Flyer Three Stone Hand Engraved SettingAvailable in platinum, 18kt white gold or 18kt yellow gold and can accommodate a round brilliant from .50ct to 4.20ct.

Scott Kay Pave Diamond Setting .38ct tw

This unique Scott Kay engagement ring features round brilliant cut pave set diamonds on three sides of the band crisscrossing under the bottom of the center stone.

Scott Kay Pave Diamond SettingAvailable in palladium, platinum, 19kt white gold or 19kt yellow gold and can accommodate a round brilliant or fancy shape center stone from .40ct to 4.20ct.

Stardust .70ct Micro Pave Setting

This classic Stardust engagement ring features 145 round brilliant cut micro pave set diamonds around the center stone and down the band.  It is available in platinum, 18kt white gold or 18kt yellow gold and can accommodate an Emerald shape center stone from .70ct to 4.20ct.

Stardust Micro Pave Setting

Art Carved Channel Set Engagement Ring

This classic Art Carved engagement ring features round brilliant cut channel-set diamonds going half way down the top and both sides of the band.  This setting is available in platinum, palladium 14kt white gold or 14kt yellow gold and can accommodate a round brilliant or fancy shape center stone from .40ct to 4.20ct.

Art Carved Channel Set Engagement RingImage shown with a 1.00ct round brilliant

Tacori Sapphire and Diamond Pave Setting

This sophisticated Tacori engagement ring 2518RD features half moon shaped bar set blue sapphires and round brilliant cut pave set diamonds around the center stone.  It also features round brilliant cut pave-set diamonds down the two rows of the knife -edged band.  The matching Tacori wedding band 2520 features round brilliant cut pave set diamonds going half way around the band.

Tacori 2518 RD

Available in platinum, 18kt white gold or 18kt yellow gold and can accommodate a round brilliant from .70ct to 2.50ct.

Jeff Cooper Diamond Bar Setting with Baguettes and Round Diamonds

This beautiful Jeff Cooper engagement ring features a bar setting with 2 straight baguettes and 2 round brilliant cut diamonds set on either side of your choice of a center stone.

ff Cooper Diamond Bar Setting with Baguettes and Round DiamondsThis setting is available in platinum, 18kt white gold and 18kt yellow gold and can accommodate a round brilliant or fancy shape center stone from .40ct to 4.20ct.

The 4Cs of Diamonds: Diamond Cut

Of the 4Cs, cut is the most important characteristic of a diamond and it has the greatest overall impact on a diamond’s beauty.  Diamonds have the unique ability to manipulate light (aka fire, sparkle, and brilliance) that can only be realized with an extremely high level of accuracy during the cutting and polishing process.  Nature dictates color and clarity, but humans affect the cut.  When cutting diamond rough, the cutter not only considers the proportions of a diamond, but the craftsmanship of overall symmetry and polish as well.  Light enters and exits though the crown reflecting from one facet to another.  A diamond that is cut too shallow or too deep will not reflect light properly and the diamond will not be as brilliant as a diamond with an excellent cut grade.

Diamond’s Light Return

diamond cut chart

In early 2005, GIA (Gemological Institute of America) introduced a diamond cut grading system for round brilliant cut diamonds in the D-Z color range and flawless to I3 clarity range.  In January 2006, these new cut grades ranging from excellent to poor were added to all GIA diamond certificates (aka diamond plot).  To achieve the cut grading system, GIA calculated the cut results for 38.5 million cut proportion sets based on the evaluation of seven components.  The first three were related to appearance and brightness and the last four were related to overall craftsmanship.

GIA Cut Grades

Excellent

Very Good

Good

Fair

Poor

When purchasing a diamond, we recommend purchasing the best possible cut grade within your budget.  Unlike color and clarity; which are personal preferences, cut is extremely important.

Visit our education section for more on diamond cut.