The 4 C’s

The 4Cs of Diamonds: Diamond Cut

December 28, 2009 By marc Leave a Comment

Of the 4Cs, cut is the most important characteristic of a diamond and it has the greatest overall impact on a diamond’s beauty. Diamonds have the unique ability to manipulate light (aka fire, sparkle, and brilliance) that can only be realized with an extremely high level of accuracy during the cutting and polishing process. Nature dictates color and clarity, but humans affect the cut. When cutting diamond rough, the cutter not only considers the proportions of a diamond, but the craftsmanship of overall symmetry and polish as well. Light enters and exits though the crown reflecting from one facet to another. A diamond that is cut too shallow or too deep will not reflect light properly and the diamond will not be as brilliant as a diamond with an excellent cut grade.

Diamond’s Light Return

In early 2005, GIA (Gemological Institute of America) introduced a diamond cut grading system for round brilliant cut diamonds in the D-Z color range and flawless to I3 clarity range. In January 2006, these new cut grades ranging from excellent to poor were added to all GIA diamond certificates (aka diamond plot). To achieve the cut grading system, GIA calculated the cut results for 38.5 million cut proportion sets based on the evaluation of seven components. The first three were related to appearance and brightness and the last four were related to overall craftsmanship.

GIA Cut Grades

Excellent

Very Good

Good

Fair

Poor

When purchasing a diamond, we recommend purchasing the best possible cut grade within your budget. Unlike color and clarity; which are personal preferences, cut is extremely important.

Visit our education section for more on diamond cut.

Filed Under: Education, The 4 C's Tagged With: Diamond Brilliance, Diamond Cut, Diamond's Light Return, Diamonds and Light, Fire, GIA Cut Grading System, Round Brilliant Cut Diamonds, The 4 C's

The 4Cs of Diamonds: Diamond Weight

December 24, 2009 By marc Leave a Comment

Diamond weight is described using two terms: carat and point. Carat is determined by measuring the distance across the top of diamond and is always listed in millimeters. When measuring diamond weight it is important to factor in the cut grade. In a well-cut diamond, the maximum amount of light enters and exits through the table making the diamond look larger than a poorly cut stone.

Like color and clarity, carat weight is a key factor in determining the value of a diamond. Diamond prices vary by carat weight increasing at the full and half-carat weights. Diamonds just below these weight changes will be less costly and a majority of the time size is undetectable. For example, a 1.00ct diamond will be in a different price point than a .98ct diamond, but the size will not be noticeable. Also, since larger diamonds are more rare and costly than smaller diamonds a 1.00ct single diamond will cost much more than several smaller diamonds equaling a total carat weight of 1.00ct.

Diamond Measurements

Carat = 100 points or 200 milligrams

Point = 0.01 or one-hundredth of a carat

What carat weight is right for her?

There are several important factors to keep in mind when determining carat weight.

Price – diamond cut, we feel, is the most important of the 4Cs and you should always choose a well cut stone over weight. If carat weight is important to you and you would like a larger stone, you have some flexibility in terms of price with color and clarity.

Finger size – a 1.00ct diamond will look much larger on someone with a size 4 finger than a size 8 finger.

Setting – certain settings can make a diamond appear larger than it actually is. Our personal shoppers can help you determine which setting is right for you if you don’t already have something in mind.

Visit our education section for more on diamond weight

Filed Under: Education, The 4 C's Tagged With: Diamond Clarity, Diamond Cut, Diamond Setting, Diamond Weight, Diamonds, The 4 C's

What is a Diamond Blemish?

December 20, 2009 By marc Leave a Comment

Blemishes are clarity characteristics on the surface of a diamond. Some blemishes are natural and some occur when the diamond is cut, polished, or from every day wear. Some blemishes can affect the diamond’s clarity grade, but many have no impact on the diamond’s brilliance.

Some of the more common blemishes…

Scratches are fine lines on the surface usually the table that can be removed by re-polishing the diamond.

Nicks are chips in the diamond usually around the girdle.

Pits are holes in the diamond’s facets and are usually hard to see unless one is in the table facet.

Extra facets are additional facets added the diamond to polish away a flaw or to save diamond weight.

Naturals are part of the diamond’s original rough surface left unpolished. They are usually left along the diamond’s girdle to produce a larger carat weight stone. When left on the girdle, naturals will not affect clarity grade.

Learn more about the 4C’s

Filed Under: Education, The 4 C's Tagged With: Diamond Blemish, Diamond Clarity, Diamond Clarity Characteristics, The 4 C's

What is a Diamond Inclusion?

December 20, 2009 By marc Leave a Comment

A diamond inclusion is a clarity characteristic that is completely enclosed within the diamond or extends into it from the surface. Some people think of inclusions as “flaws” or “imperfections,” but since no two diamonds have like inclusions, think of them as what makes the diamond you choose special and unique only to you. Take the time to get to know your diamond and you’ll see how truly unique and “perfect” it is. Flawless diamonds are rare and costly, so most of the diamonds on the market today do have inclusions. Many do not impact the beauty of the stone, but there are some that will affect the brilliance or durability of the diamond.

Some of the more common inclusions…

Bearding is tiny hairline cracks alone the girdle of the diamond.

Cavities are large crevices or holes where the diamond is missing.

Crystals are minerals and other diamonds that form within the diamond. They come in a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. Many minute crystals that look like tiny specks under 10x magnification are called pinpoints. Crystals can lower the clarity grade of a diamond, but collectors also seek after them looking for that very unique mineral. The most common crystal colors are white and black. Black crystals are often referred to as “carbon spots,” which is an inaccurate term.

Cleavage is a straight flat crack. A cleavage may split the diamond apart along the length if hit in just the right spot.

Clouds are hazy or milky looking areas within the diamond. Most clouds are made up of tiny crystals too small to be seen alone under 10x magnification. Clouds can often times be difficult to find, but when they are large and dense they make the diamond appear white.

Feathers are cracks within the diamond that look exactly like their name, feathers. Small feathers don’t usually affect the durability of the diamond unless they reach the surface of the stone.

Growth and grain lines are fine lines caused by irregular crystallization that may make the diamond look oily or hazy. Colorless growth or grain lines usually don’t affect the diamonds clarity grade unless there is a large amount present, but may affect the diamond’s brilliance. White and colored lines will affect the diamond’s clarity grade.

Knots are included crystals left exposed on the surface by polishing. They look like bumps on the diamond.

Pinpoints are tiny crystals that look like small specks under 10x magnification that can either appear alone or in groups. When grouped together they can make a diamond look hazy.

Learn more about the 4C’s

Image shown is a feather

Image shown is a cloud

diamond inclusions

Image shown is bearding

Image shown is a very unique "bird" shaped crystal

Image shown is pinpoints

Filed Under: Education, The 4 C's Tagged With: Diamond Clarity, Diamond Clarity Characteristics, Diamond Inclusion, The 4 C's

The 4Cs of Diamonds: Diamond Color

December 14, 2009 By marc Leave a Comment

Diamond color is one of the 4C’s and is a major factor in determining the quality and cost of a diamond. Diamond color actually refers to the lack of color not the amount of color found in the diamond. Diamonds composed of pure carbon are colorless and are extremely rare and costly. Most diamonds contain nitrogen, boron, or hydrogen all of which impact color. A majority of all diamonds sold on the market today contain traces of nitrogen that causes slight shades of yellow or brown.

In the 1950’s the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) instituted a color grading system to eliminate the confusion regarding diamond color that is still used industry wide today. Diamonds are graded on a scale from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown).

Diamond Color Grade Chart

How to Choose a Diamond Color

D-E-F = colorless

G-H-I = near colorless

J-K-L-M = faint yellow

N-Z = very light to light yellow

Some key factors to consider when choosing a diamond color

Price – colorless diamonds are more rare and therefore costly. A near colorless diamond provides a great value and looks beautiful with any metal type.

Cut – when a diamond is cut well the diamond’s color may appear whiter than it actually is disguising any color within the stone.

Size – the size of a diamond will affect the appearance of its color. Color can be seen more easily in a larger diamond than a smaller one. If choosing a diamond weight of 1.00ct or greater look for a diamond in the colorless (D-F) or near colorless (G-I) range. If you prefer the warmth of a diamond with color choose a faint yellow (J-M) stone. When choosing a diamond beyond the I color range you’ll want to consider your metal choice for the setting. Some like the contrast between a white metal such as platinum, palladium, or white gold and the faint yellow tones of the diamond and some don’t want to see any color at all. This is a personal preference and there is no right or wrong diamond color for any setting choice.

Shape – the shape of a diamond will affect color especially in a step-cut diamond such as an Asscher or Emerald. With their large open facets they do not display the same amount of brilliance as other cuts and color can be easily seen through the table.

Learn more about the 4 C’s

Filed Under: Education, The 4 C's Tagged With: color grading system, colorless diamonds, Diamond Color, Diamond Cut, Diamond Shape, diamond size, Metal Type, near colorless diamonds, The 4 C's

What is a Diamond Point?

December 1, 2009 By Since1910 Leave a Comment

One carat equals 100 points so each point is 1/100ths of a carat. A “20-point” diamond weights 1/20th of a carat. When referring to smaller stones it is much easier to use the term point and say, “this stone weighs 10 points” instead of saying “this stone weighs 1/10th of a carat.”

Find the right diamond weight with our diamond search

Filed Under: Education Tagged With: Carat, Diamond Point, Education, The 4 C's

Can you compare one diamond to another?

November 18, 2009 By Since1910 Leave a Comment

With shape, weight, and cut all being equal you can compare like diamonds in terms of color and clarity. Diamonds of the same clarity can differ quite a bit. Let’s take a SI1 clarity diamond for example. When looking at the diamond’s plot or at the diamond directly through at 10x loupe the clarity characteristics can be quite different and you’ll want to choose the one that is most appealing to you. Unless flawless, all diamonds will have clarity characteristics and only you can decide what you’ll be happy looking at each day. When comparing like diamonds I suggest looking at no more than 3 at one time. Keep narrowing it down always keeping your top choice each time.

Use our diamond comparison tool to find the perfect stone.

Filed Under: Education, The 4 C's Tagged With: Diamond Clarity, Diamond Color, Diamond Cut, Diamond Plot, Diamond Shape, Diamond Weight, Diamonds, The 4 C's

How to shop for an engagement ring

November 1, 2009 By Since1910 Leave a Comment

In a previous post we gave some tips on things to know before you begin to look for engagements rings. Now that you’ve thought about budget, diamond shape, and a setting, we’ve broken down the buying process into 3 steps for you:

We always recommend starting with the diamond first. Our diamond education section will provide you with all the information you need about the 4 c’s and various diamond shapes to get you started. Each diamond shape is unique in its own way and offers something a little different in terms of look.
After you choose your diamond, the setting is next. The setting, regardless of metal type or style, should always enhance the stone. The diamond should “stand out” and be the focal point of the ring.
Lastly, metal type – A majority of settings you’ll look at are available in 18kt white gold, yellow gold, and platinum. If you like the look of white metal, platinum would be the way to go. Platinum should also be your choice if your significant other has metal allergies.

Now that you’re prepared, shop for the perfect engagement ring using our Create Your Own Engagement Ring three-step process!

Filed Under: Education Tagged With: Diamonds, Engagement Ring Setting, Engagement Ring Shopping, Metal Allergy, Metal Type, Platinum, The 4 C's, White Gold, Yellow Gold

What do I need to know before I begin shopping for an engagement ring?

October 28, 2009 By Since1910 Leave a Comment

#1 is always to establish a budget

Know how much you can spend. Then you need to ask yourself:

What diamond shape does she like?

Some research has shown that diamond shape and personality are connected. Here’s a brief example:

Round – home and family centered, dependable, easy to get along with, and security conscious

Oval – individualistic, creative, well-organized, dependable, and willing to take chances

Heart – sentimental, creative, feminine, sensitive, trusting, dramatic, and a dreamer

Rectangle/Square – organized, conservative, efficient, honest, and open

Pear – conforming, considerate, adaptable, and home & community centered

Marquise – extroverted, experimental, exciting, innovative, and career centered

What type of setting does she like – solitaire, traditional, modern, or antique?

Does she prefer a setting with diamonds or without? If with, what type?

Think about her lifestyle – is she athletic, what type of work does she do? This will help you decide on a setting (if she didn’t already give you pictures or tell you!) and we can recommend how the diamond should be set – prong or bezel.

What type of metal?

What color will match her other pieces – white gold, yellow gold, or platinum? Important to know – does she have a metal allergy? If yes, or you’re unsure and this is a surprise, platinum should be your choice.

Learn at least the basics about the 4 c’s – you can maximize your budget by looking at different combinations.

Once you’ve thought about the above you’re ready to start looking. I always recommend starting with the diamond first. Once you pick the shape, color, and weight you’ll be able to pick the perfect setting that will show off the stone you chose beautifully.

Keep in mind that there is no right or wrong type of engagement ring. Choose what you like and what will make you both happy.

Shop now using our Create Your Own Engagement Ring three-step process

Filed Under: Education Tagged With: Bezel-setting, Engagement Ring Shopping, Metal Allergy, Metal Type, Platinum, Prong-setting, Solitaire Setting, The 4 C's, Traditional Setting, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Who came up with the 2 month salary rule for engagement rings?

October 23, 2009 By Since1910 Leave a Comment

If you’ve heard about the two month salary rule you have probably heard about the three month salary rule as well. Both rules are a myth and not a fact. There is no set dollar amount or percentage on how much you should spend on an engagement ring. This is an individual decision that you’ll need to make. Like any large purchase, we suggest establishing a budget first before you even begin to start looking. Once you’re budget is established and you have been provided with all the options available within that budget you’ll then be able to make an informed decision on which ring is right for you and your significant other.

While we’re talking about myths there is one other to bring up here. Bigger is better – so untrue. When shopping for diamonds, size is not the first thing you should look for. The cut of a stone should be your priority followed by color, clarity, and then weight.

Talk to one of our Graduate Gemologists who will guide you through the shopping process and help you find the perfect fit. By phone 1-800-979-1910 or by email customerservice@since1910.com.

Filed Under: Education Tagged With: Diamond Clarity, Diamond Color, Diamond Cut, Diamond Weight, Diamonds, Engagement Ring Shopping, The 4 C's